Bazaar Life Lessons (8/24/12)

Yesterday I learned that I could be Russian, or from Texas, or (with the help of tea or lemon salt) thinner or younger.  I also learned that Iranian fish eggs are sold in wax pods that look like big peppers and live leaches are still used for medicinal purposes in Istanbul.  Finally, I learned that stuffed apricots are stuffed with nuts not cheese (at least not until my sister moves to Istanbul to launch her cheese-stuffed apricots business).

The Spice Bazaar in Istanbul is full of life lessons (not to mention amazing spices).

Seriously, We Have a Palace (8/23/12)

Last night after a very fun but exhausting day of navigating the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, my sister and I were feeling like a big night on the town would be a little too much.  So we opted for dinner just up the street from our hotel at a place called Albura Kathisma.  After a very good meal, we were getting ready to leave when our waiter said to us, "have you seen our palace?"

When  looked at him skeptically he said, "seriously, we have a palace.  Come see."

My sister and I followed our waiter down a passage in the wall to find the ancient remains of an actual palace.  It is the Byzantine Magnaura Palace to be precise and it was discovered as construction was beginning for a new hotel.  The hotel was never built and four rooms of the palace were excavated deep below the street.

The palace used to play host to foreign dignitaries and, according to our waiter, was once connected to Topkapi Palace.  According to hipstanbul.com the Kremlin Palace and San Marco Basilica were both inspired by Magnaura Palace.

For my sister and I it was an archaeological dessert that was deliciously enjoyed!

Circumcision Ouchfit (8/22/12)

As I've been walking around Istanbul this week I've noticed easily a dozen young boys dressed in all white suits with feather-trimmed capes, maces and hats.  These outfits are often trimmed in gold or silver.  They look like a cross between the Beatles' Sargent Peppers costumes, Liberace, and what I imagine St. Peter wears to welcome people at the Pearly Gates.

While at dinner last night I asked my friends who live in Turkey why so many boys were all dressed up.  My friend casually told me that they were circumcision outfits.  Muslim boys are not circumcised until they are between the ages of 7-10 (though some boys looked as young as 5).  After consulting various sites on the Web I also learned that the circumcision represents the transition from childhood to adulthood.  The boys notonly get a sweet white outfit, they also get gifts from family and friends at a big party held in their honor.

I guess it's similar to a bar mitzvah in Jewish culture, except a bar mitzvah doesn't include a little snip snip before the party can start.

It's the Thought That Counts, Mahmud (8/21/12)

We visited Topkapi Saray yesterday, the palace of the Ottoman Empire.  It's an impressive display of wealth and power from the gardens and Sultan's robes to the ornate jewelry and jewel-encrusted treasures.

One of the treasures of Topkapi is the dagger of Topkapi.  This gold and jeweled dagger has three huge emeralds on the handle. It was originally meant as a gift from the Sultan Mahud I to Nadir Shah, the Iranian conquerer, but as the delivery entrouge made its way from Constantinople to Iran they received word that Nadir Shah had been killed.  So they returned back from whence they came and the dagger remained at Topkapi.

In the late 1960's a movie called Topkapi was released starring Peter Ustinov.  This movie is about a group of people trying to steal the dagger of Topkapi.  This movie is so going into my Netflix cue!

Monkey Marriage in Istanbul (8/20/12)

Yesterday I was sitting on a rooftop in Istanbul with my sister and my friend Celex.  Though it was sunny it started to drizzle rain.  Celex told us that in India when it is both sunny and raining they say monkeys are getting married.  Monkeys getting married...how cool is that?!?  Yesterday they were getting hitched in Istanbul (not Constantinople).

Third time's the charm for Mother Nature in Greece (8/19/12)

Yesterday I visited Akrotiri which I learned is the Greek Pompeii.  Located on Santorini, right near the red beach, Akrotiri was once a thriving metropolis of cosmopolitain culture.  Despite being a very prosperous village as evidenced by some large houses with distinct signs of wealth, the people of Akrotiri had some challenges.  They suffered through an earthquake that destroyed part of the town.  They rebuilt and continued to prosper until they were hit by a second earthquake. Not cool, right?  But wait, there's more.  While still rebuilding from the second earthquake (and this way in the 17th century B.C. so rebuilding was hard work)  the down was destroyed when it was engulfed in ash and lava from a volcano.

Archeologists have been working for decades on the excavation of Akrotiri.  They've found signs of regulated commerce, advanced amenities for homes, including an indoor toilet, and imports from other parts of the world - my favorite being monkeys.

Unlike Pompeii, the residents of Akrotiri were able to escape before being buried - possibly because they were a port city, possibly because they had already experienced two disasters and were on their game.  Maybe they were finally just lucky.

Red, White and Black (8/18/12)

Yesterday I learned about the black, red and white beaches of Santorini.  Three of the most popular beaches for tourists and locals alike these beaches provide three different experience of Greek paradise.

The white beach is the most secluded of the three.  It is accessible only by boat, with small ferries running there several times a day.

The red beach is so named for the red colored cliffs that climb skyward from it.  The red beach is fairly secluded and requires visitors to climb a steep, rocky path to reach it.  This climb deters few as it is a very popular destination.

Finally the black beach gets its name from the black sand of its beaches.  This sand is a result of the volcanic eruption thousands of years ago and is a stark contrast to the bright blue water.

All three provide visitors with an amazing beach-going experience that won't soon be forgotten.